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Dinner Closed Sundays RESERVATIONS:
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Now
That’s Italian!
Another memorable Italian restaurant did make a brief appearance: Il Sansovino, which had in spades the ambiance and service that a place like Michelangelo lacks. But the sky-high location of Il Sansovino-perched atop the American Stores Center-and the lofty prices, pomp and circumstance to match, made it a hard sell in a town where people are willing to wait 45 minutes for a table at the Olive Garden. But for a brief shining moment, Il Sansovino was indeed Utah’s best Italian restaurant. Il Sansovino and Salt Lake City’s newest and best Italian restaurant have something in common: Valter Nassi. He was the brains behind Il Sansovino and recently signed on as manager and chef of Cucina Toscana, formerly 3rd West Bistro. Much of my dining life has been spent trying to reproduce or revisit memories. I’ve spent many hours, miles and dollars trying to again find that perfect pizza I had in Naples. Or the rabbit I ate in Provence … or a bowl of noodles in Japan. And what I like so much about Cucina Toscana is that it’s all about memories: Valter Nassi’s memories. It’s about the flavors and ways of eating that he experienced growing up in Italy. That is to say, Cucina Toscana is about authentic Italian dining.
While Cucina Toscana certainly has an upscale, urban look and feel, it’s anything but the intimidating place that Il Sansovino was. On the contrary, it’s warm and inviting. On a recent visit my companion and I made up the only table in the restaurant not occupied by kids, which is a beautiful thing. I love to look around a restaurant and see kids and parents enjoying real Italian food, family style. So does Valter Nassi, who beams at the notion that children are trying his spaghetti carbonara or the fresh, homemade gnocchi. It’s the friendly service and prices that make that possible. Since many of the dishes at Cucina Toscana are available as half-order portions, it’s possible for kids to have a plate of pasta for $5.95, while mom and dad enjoy a four-course meal without having to sell the Mercedes. That’s the main difference between Il Sansovino and Cucina Toscana. In fact, the prices are only slightly higher than at typical Italian chain restaurants like the aforementioned Olive Garden. But while the prices are similar, the flavors, service and ambiance are worlds apart. I strongly recommend beginning a meal at Cucina Toscana with a traditional Caesar salad, prepared at the table ($10.95 for two). It’s a wonderful salad and even the kids will get a kick out of watching the tableside Caesar show. Another terrific starter is the Antipasto Della Casa, which is a cold plate that includes shrimp, squid, roasted peppers, asparagus, Italian cheeses, tomatoes, veal, zucchini, eggplant and much more. It’s a steal at only $5.95 and you could make a light dinner or lunch of nothing more than the antipasto and a bowl of hearty pasta e fagioli soup ($4.25).
Although most Americans are used to having pasta for their main course in Italian restaurants, the menu at Cucina Toscana follows a more traditional Italian format: salad, soup, pasta, and then a “Secondi Piatti” of meat, poultry and seafood dishes. Again, thanks to the half-portion sizes and prices, it’s possible at Cucina Toscana to enjoy a small (but not that small) plate of, say, farfalle pasta with ham, peas and silky cream sauce ($5.95), and then follow it up with grilled trout ($7.95). Or perhaps hearty rigatoni Bolognese ($8.95) and veal scaloppine in a classic lemon and caper-berry sauce ($9.95). Another bargain dining option is the “Pre-Theatre Special,” where for $15.95 customers can choose soup or a salad, a beverage and gelato, and a main dish ranging from a whole grilled portobello mushroom with Tuscan herbs to the fantastic Cucina Toscana osso buco on a bed of polenta. That’s fine dining at budget prices! I could go on about this dish and that. Frankly, I’ve yet to try anything at Cucina Toscana that I didn’t like a lot, including the lovely sweets made by Martin’s Fine Desserts. But I’d rather you tried Cucina Toscana for yourself. After all, it’s about time Utah had a Best Italian Restaurant worthy of the label. And it’s about time you dined there. (http://www.slweekly.com/editorial/2002/dine_2002-12-12.cfm)
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Calling a restaurant
Utah’s “Best Italian” is somewhat akin to selecting
North Dakota’s best beach. There’s not much
to choose from. So restaurants in this state tend to win
awards for “best” Italian cooking by default. I’ll
go to my grave insisting that Heber’s Il Giardino was the best
Italian restaurant ever seen in Zion, followed closely by Michelangelo
(which has the same chef in common). Most of the other nominees
are contemporary Cal-Italy eateries or spaghetti and meatball joints. But
for truly authentic and traditional Italian fare, there have been few
places in Utah to which to turn.
After a brief stint
at The Goldener Hirsch in Deer Valley, Nassi seems to finally have
found his niche. I give credit to Cucina Toscana co-owner
Ken Millo for having the sense (and courage, some would say) to bring
Nassi into the fold. Notoriously difficult to work for and
with, Nassi is passionate about his restaurants, but at Cucina Toscana
he seems to have mellowed a bit. There are times when he
even seems … happy. And why not? After
all, he’s surrounded with contented customers who enjoy the terrific
Italian meals, the ambiance and the fair prices that Cucina Toscana
serves up.