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Dinner Closed Sundays RESERVATIONS:
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Cosmic
Forces aligned at tasty Cucina Toscana
When a new restaurant comes into town, it had better have a solid concept and excellent food. Good location, good service and good marketing are also important factors, and heaven knows that many good kitchens have been destroyed by bad management. But you don’t have anything if you don’t have good food. How do you know if you have good food? You don’t. But the public does. And that is the grand equalizer. So, occupying the spot of the former 3rd West Bistro is Cucina Toscana, an Italian establishment featuring the flavors of the Tuscan region. My friend Pam and I visited on the early side for lunch this week and watched as the dining room filled to near capacity. We were greeted with handshakes by a friendly gentleman who introduced himself as the one behind the restaurant’s concept. He explained his wishes for the restaurant and plans to expand on the space next door (formerly occupied by Trattoria Giovanna) for the relaxed and luxurious Tuscan-style parties and lounging. Our friend moved on to greet other diners but checked in often to see how we were enjoying each course. We started with a small antipasto plate and fresh bread with a soft dollop of whipped butter. The antipasto was assembled from a “bar” of marinated vegetables and meats situated in front of the kitchen. We tasted marinated zucchini, spinach and roasted red peppers, as well as shrimp, mushrooms and stuffed red pepper rolls.
Next, Pam had the stuffed salmon, served on a small bed of spaghetti squash. The two modest portions of salmon were rolled and stuffed with herbs, onions and diced Italian ham. I had the spinach-and-cheese stuffed ravioli with the four-cheese cream sauce. It’s a good thing this portion was relatively light, because it was rich. Our meal was quite relaxing, though Cucina Toscana still seems to be working out some timing issues at the lunch hour. Not worrying about the office is also integral to having an enjoyable meal. Cucina Toscana prepares some of its sweets in-house and has the rest baked for it off-site. There are several choices that sound divine, such as the pear-almond torte, but we were happy with the ever-light tiramisu, with its alternating spongy and creamy layers and mild spice. The decadent cake was rich fun for its layers of mousse, cake and ganache. Enjoy the familiar atmosphere and the casually elegant décor when you visit. I’m sure you’ll be impressed with the service and attention paid to your own comfort. And don’t be surprised if you are greeted with a handshake and seen off with a hug. Cucina Toscana is at the right place at the right time. The lunch menu is a winner, and if dinner is anything like it, Cucina Toscana will be around for a long while. The authentic Tuscan touch is a refreshing addition to the choices downtown, with presentation and quality that put it into the “best of” category of fine dining in Salt Lake City.
Cucina Toscana: **** (out of five)
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Thanks goodness for
second chances. Thank goodness that, when things aren’t
quite right in the restaurant world, one way or another, cosmic forces
work to eventually put it all right.
In our soup course,
I tried the cream of butternut squash. It was ultra-smooth
with a sweet foundation, accented well by black pepper. Pam
had a terrific three-bean-and-pasta soup. It had a loose
broth and small pieces of thin pasta and beans. Both soups
had a sense of housemade care built into them. Care at each
course is integral to an overall satisfying experience.
Prices: